Having acquired an educational background in economics and literature, Caroline Sermier fell in love with watchmaking right from her arrival at Renaud & Papi.
Her current responsibilities as head of the communication department allows her to blend a taste for writing with her fascination for complicated watches, and particularly for the finishing and decorative details on top-of-the-range luxury watches.

X. COTES DE GENEVE

This type of decoration is normally used on the visible surface of bridges and bars. Côtes de Genève, which are purely decorative by nature, are not compatible with functional surfaces, since the quantity of matter removed would diminish their precision. These are regular parallel lines which give the part a ribbed look which is currently highly prized in the top-of-the-range segment. Their appearance must be impeccable and requires great dexterity and know-how

The hand-crafted method
Côtes de Genève are achieved using extremely hard wooden pads (boxwood) cut out to the chosen diameter and coated with an abrasive before being placed on a lathe. The forward and backward motion of the abrasive marks the surface of the part, forming parallel straight or circular lines according to fashions and tastes. It is now possible to create côtes de Genève industrially, using numerically controlled machines which progressively move the parts to be decorated forward. This system is effective for large series and gives a clear-cut and regular result. However, all parts re identical and cannot be personalised as they can by hand crafting.

XI. SNAILING

This is a spiral-shaped pattern generally made on ratchets, barrels and barrel-covers. This type of decoration is achieved by a grinding-wheel turning over the surface of a part and directed so as to create spiral-shaped lines.

XII. SUNRAY-BRUSHING

Sunray-brushing is a type of decoration made up of lines which all have the same point of intersection and make the decorated part look like a sun with darting rays. This type of decoration is achieved by a bell-shaped grinding-wheel which is turned in the opposite direction to the part and is oriented in such a way as to form straight or circular lines which all pass through the same centre point.

XIII. CIRCULAR-GRAINING

A pattern generally used on the visible face of wheels in a watch movement. Circular-graining is an operation that consists of smoothing the face of the wheel with a slate stick or buff. The wheel turns and the slate stick is pressed against the face. This type of finish creates fine circular lines and enhances radiance.

Harmonious proportions, remarkable quality of craftsmanship. The fruit of a passion placed in the service of an informed clientele. As already mentioned, a complex watch is not necessarily a high-end watch; in classifying the perfection of a watch, each detail must be taken into consideration to achieve the best result in terms of finish and aesthetic elegance.
Only an expert eye will be able, according to the resulting surface state, to define the working method used which sometimes proves a genuine label of finishing quality. In a nutshell, aesthetic appearance must in no way attempt to compensate for any technical deficiency, nor must it be detrimental to the smooth running of the complication.
A watch is and remains a time measurement device, but a high-tech product is also an object whose aesthetic quality is a determining factor in purchase. Fine watchmaking is an encounter between humankind and its history, a blend of traditional know-how and cutting-edge technology in the quest for the ultimate in perfection.

See: Bevelling and finishes...(VIII)