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Every time, the "Experts talking" column develops a different case.
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Presently: Bevelling and finishes in top-of-the-range watchmaking (VIII)

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- Bevelling and finishes...(I)
- Bevelling and finishes...(II)
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- Bevelling and finishes...(IV)
- Bevelling and finishes...(V)
- Bevelling and finishes...(VI)

- Bevelling and finishes...(VII)
- Bevelling and finishes...(VIII)
- Bevelling and finishes...(IX)
- Bevelling and finishes..(X)
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- Observations on top-of-the-range...III
- Observations on top-of-the-range...IV
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The author

Having acquired an educational background in economics and literature, Caroline Sermier fell in love with watchmaking right from her arrival at Renaud & Papi.
Her current responsibilities as head of the communication department allows her to blend a taste for writing with her fascination for complicated watches, and particularly for the finishing and decorative details on top-of-the-range luxury watches.

20. Bevelling and finishes in top-of-the-range watchmaking (X): Stippling, etc.

 


VIII. STIPPLING

Also called spotting, stippling is a type of decoration that is fairly widely used on bridges, bars, plates, recesses and dials.
This operation reproduces circles made up of extremely close or even overlapping concentric lines.

The hand-made method
This decoration is achieved using a circular-graining lathe. The flat end of a wooden or rubber peg around 2 mm in diameter, driven by a belt or a bow, revolves carrying a damp mass of abrasive powder.
The pattern is formed by bringing the revolving stem into contact with the stem which marks the surface of the part at regular intervals.
Quality circular-engraving must be regular and this type of decoration is extremely hard to achieve and calls for expertise and tremendous control. The abrasive used must be chosen in accordance with the desired depth of decoration and must be changed regularly if one wishes to maintain the depth initially chosen.

The industrial method
Industrial circular-graining machines are still fairly rare and extremely expensive; they are numerically controlled and are suitable for large series. The result is regular, but the parts are strictly identical and do not enable the kind of personalisation one obtains from manual methods.

IX. GUILLOCHE WORK
OR ENGINE-TURNING

Guilloché work is a pattern consisting of geometrical motifs engraved on the surface of the part.
These may be extremely varied patterns made up of interwoven lines creating a decorative result. It is a combination of straight and circular lines which was extremely popular in the early 19th century.
The complexity of this work and the skill required have meant this type of decoration is reserved for extremely expensive watches.
Currently, prestige brands wishing to decorate their cases or dials with guilloché work or engine-turning have to seek out and restore extremely rare antique machines.

Guilloché work: methodology
First of all, the surface of the part must be particularly well prepared, since the guilloché work would otherwise be distorted. The part is prepared by smoothing to achieve the best possible polish, before using a finishing paste in order to highlight the mark of the guide during the guilloché work itself.
A final polish than provides the final radiance desired. It is essential that the burin by perfectly filed, sharpened and adjusted according to the material used and the desired depth in order to give a sharp and shiny cut which will be suitable all processes where polishing is not needed.
When a polished finish is required, as guilloché cases, the edges of the burin must be painstakingly polished. Thus sharpened, the burin will give the brilliant and polished cut appropriate for high-end watches.
The burin must also be placed at the correct height to avoid distorting the guilloché pattern.
The number of waves on the engine-turned circle and the motif are a question of personal choice.
The craftsman ensures that the part is placed perfectly flat to ensure that the guide remains in equal contact with the surface of the part around its entire rim.



See: Bevelling and finishes...(VIII)

 






 

   

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