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Although the Swiss watch has now existed
for several centuries, cases were only produced on an industrial
scale as of 1876, after a visit to the United States by a Swiss
commission.
This group has able to study the advanced methods used in America
and then to begin applying these industrial processes in Switzerland.
Following this, it was technological evolution and fashion that
were behind the evolution within the manufacturing of watch cases.
First came the use of stainless steel, which replaced watch cases
made from brass, and then the genetalised turn to watertight watches
as of the sixties, and in particular thanks to the work of Ervin
Piquerez.
Fashion then created a demand for extra-flat cases, and favoured
the construction of special calibres such as that of the "Delirium",
which evolved to create the calibre used in today's "Swatch".
Both fashion and market demands led to sapphire glass and scratch-resistant
materials becoming widely used.
Pantograph for case-making, end of
XIXth century,
Musée International d'Horlogerie, La Chaux-de-Fonds
This evolution was only possible thanks
to technological developments.
The first mechanical balances were replaced by hydraulic presses
that today have made fully automated die-stamping and annealing
possible. The creation of die-stamps, once entirely made by hand,
is greatly facilitated by automated wire erosion or by pressing.
Machining itself, which at one time was carried out almost exclusively
on "Gudel" machines, on which all operations for removing
chips were carried out, now takes place on multi-axis machines with
digital controls. Even polishing, which had remained one of the
last bastions of manual work, is now becoming automated to a larger
extent thanks to the introduction of ever-more efficient machines
capable of reproducing the work of the polisher.
Today, the last bastion of manual know-how is the assembly of the
components of a watch case and the final visual control.
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The evolution has also changed the
profession of case manufacturers. From a process that was purely
one of craftsmanship, it has become one of specialists in all the
modern sectors and now requires an even longer apprenticeship than
before (several years).
The production of large series and
the need for interchangeable parts has brought with it the modern
concepts of metrology and statistical controls professions that
did not exist in this form in the past.
Finally, this evolution has radically changed the methods of management
within today's companies.
It is today unthinkable to work without the aid of information technology,
computer-assisted drawing, design software or computer-assisted
production. Even today's factory owners have little in common with
names such as Francillon, Favre-Perret, Ruedin, etc. I am not even
sure that these illustrious figures would today be able to create
their factories or make them a going concern.
Spinning-tool, at the start of the
XXth century
Musée International d'Horlogerie, La Chaux-de-Fonds
Today, the watch case industry in Switzerland
has been at a turning point for several years. It faces various
phenomena that will influence its future.
First, we are seeing extremely well made products from the Far East
emerging to compete with us. If these products concerned only the
lower-price segment a few years ago, they are now competitive within
the middle range and coming dangerously close to the top quality
segment.
This competition is leading to extremely strong pressure on prices,
and is forcing Swiss manufacturers to remain highly competitive
since reducing margins is unhealthy on the long term. Cash flow
represents the possibility of making investments to improve the
manufacturing equipment.
In addition to this competition, we are also seeing a vertical trend
and greater concentration emerging among the watchmaking groups.
Both these factors are having the same effect on prices and thus
on cash flow.
However, neither of them have proved themselves over time, and I
am still awaiting proof that the policies adopted by new financial
managers to satisfy their shareholders are viable on the long term.
Moreover, I am today unable to judge the effect that the Internet
will have on the future of watch case.
To conclude on an optimistic note,
I should point out that our industry is regularly developing technological
innovations that are patented, and that represent technological
progress.
There will always be a niche to be occupied, and our proximity offers
us the possibility of reacting rapidly to create solutions.The fact
that we have the capacity to handle small series at acceptable costs
gives us a certain advantage.
Finally, we must not forget that this industry has always weathered
an impressive number of storms throughout its history, and yet is
still very much in existence.
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